Winter’s frost lies hard on the ground as the torchlit procession winds its way through the dark orchard. Suddenly a great shout of “Wassail!” rings out and we all yell “Wassail!” in reply. Soon we are gathered around an old apple tree, ready to take part in an ancient ceremony that gives thanks for last year’s crop and will ‘wake up’ the orchard to encourage a good harvest this year. The master of ceremonies, known as the Butler, pours an offering of cider on the tree’s roots and toast is hung from its branches. All join in with the traditional invocation:
Old apple tree, we Wassail thee,
And hope that thou will bear.
Hats full, caps full, three bushel bags full,
And a little heap under the stairs.
Then there is singing, drinking cider and and a good deal of noise to scare away any malignant spirits before we make our way back to the warmth of inn, hearth or home. Wassail!
The word Wassail comes from an Old Norse greeting “ves heill”, meaning “be in good health”, and the ceremony dates back to at least the 14th century. It traditionally took place on Twelfth Night but has undergone an explosion in popularity over the past decade. The ‘wassail season’ now stretches from early January to mid-February and the ceremony has spread from its roots in the rural orchards of England’s cider-producing counties to villages, towns and cities across the whole country.